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Writer’s Kitchen: Inspiration from Sugar and Spice

Kladdkaka

Pears and Tomatoes

Sometimes you just need to bake. You need to open a cookbook, find something that you have all the ingredients for, and get to work whipping butter, eggs, sugar, and flour into some magical concoction. Maybe you’re suffering from writer’s block. Maybe you’re just hungry. In any case, a little time in the kitchen can be a great source of inspiration if you’re anything like me.

Kladdkaka

Take yesterday, for example. As I stood in the kitchen, coring pears and stirring a pot of simmering fruit sauce on the stove, words came to me as though I was writing in my head. I was spending the day baking some things I was planning to feature on Outside Oslo, my Scandinavian food blog, and the words just started coming together, making me excited to get to the computer and see what would happen.

Scandinavian Autumn Fruit Soup

As the day went on, the aroma of fruit and spice from the Scandinavian fruit soup* and the pear sauce I was making started to mingle with the deep, sensual fragrance of warm, chocolate cake.** Little did I know when I got to work in the kitchen yesterday that I was going to fill my home with the warmest, most inviting scent, the kind that makes you feel all cozy inside. If that’s not enough to inspire creativity, I don’t know what is.

*The Scandinavian fruit soup is from my latest article in Pregnancy & Newborn Magazine. The article–“Double-duty dishes: Autumn soups to satisfy the whole family”–is on page 36 of the October issue (the digital edition is available here).

**I’ll be featuring the recipe for chocolate cake later this week on Outside Oslo.

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Writer’s Kitchen: Learning to Improvise

Absinthe Cake

Life is all about improvisation. Improvisation and reinvention.

Back in the days before we had children, Sarah and I would get together frequently to cook and bake, always finding some intriguing recipe to try, such as raclette macaroni and cheese or David Lebovitz’s absinthe cake (pictured above and featured in a previous edition of Writer’s Kitchen). While those kitchen dates with my dear friend virtually stopped for a while, I’m happy to report that we’re back to it, albeit in a modified and not-so-efficient way (have you ever tried cooking while supervising small children?). And we’re back at it just in time for fall, with its bounty of comforting stews and warm spices.

When Sarah and I used to work through complex recipes, we had a routine. I would take the role of recipe reading, making sure we were following the correct steps and keeping everything on track. Sarah would prep ingredients and keep the kitchen remarkably tidy as we went on. We were a great team. We would take our time and savor the experience, marveling in how well we worked together and talking about whatever was on our minds. These days we improvise–something our new identities as mothers requires. And while it may take twice as long to bake a simple batch of cookies, I have to say that our reinvention was totally worth it. You should see us as we wrangle very active baby boys while trying to get a recipe just right–and keep the kitchen moderately clean!

I never would have expected that becoming a mother would change the way I cooked, but it has–and in the most interesting way. I used to stick comfortably to the flavors and techniques in a recipe, veering only a little to compensate with ingredients on hand. However, in the past few months I’ve found myself coming up with ideas and running with them, sometimes piecing together a few recipes to help me with technique (as was the case with mushroom- and cheese-topped rockfish atop steamed spinach that I made over the summer) and other times boldly pulling experimental flavors together into an improvised side dish (such as the linguine with garlic, anchovies, red pepper flakes, and cilantro from earlier this month). Maybe it’s because I don’t have the time to menu plan as extensively as I used to, and therefore am forced to improvise more often. And maybe developing recipes for some recent articles in Pregnancy & Newborn Magazine and the Norwegian American Weekly has had something to do with it. In any case, it’s been exciting to watch how the kitchen skills I’ve developed over the years now serve me well as I trust myself to create something delicious, and I can’t wait to try out my newfound confidence with the bounty of fall foods.

What are some of your favorite original kitchen creations? I’d love to hear from you and get some more inspiration!

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Writer’s Kitchen: The Food Writer’s Moment of Truth

Salmon on Lentil Salad

Being a food writer is a scary thing–exhilarating, fun, and delicious, to be sure, but also anxiety-inducing. Especially when it involves sharing a recipe. Once that recipe is published, there’s no going back. I experienced a bit of those nerves a few months ago when submitting my recipe for Fennel-Scented Salmon atop a Lentil and Spinach Salad to Pregnancy & Newborn Magazine. It was a sidebar for my article called “Craving conspiracy: Ten ways to work with your cravings—instead of against them—to give your baby the best start,” and it was my first recipe to be published in a national magazine. However, part of the job of being a food writer is testing recipes, so my family ate well as I tweaked the proportions until the flavors were just right. After months of waiting, the article and recipe are now in print in this month’s issue, and my husband and I got the pleasure of cooking from my own recipe, right there on the glossy pages, a few days ago. I’m so familiar with it by now that I can make it without following the recipe to a T, but that was my moment of truth. Guess what? It’s delicious. Phew.

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Writer’s Kitchen: Baby Edition

Mac 'n' Cheese

Mac 'n' Cheese

Things look much different in the Writer’s Kitchen since my last post–and in the most wonderful way. I may not have been whipping up homemade marshmallows lately (that will happen again when the little guy is old enough to enjoy those sugary treats), but I have been discovering the exciting world of cooking for babies.

Before I go on, let me assure you that I’m not one of those supermoms who manages to do it all–including cooking every meal for her baby while keeping the house spotless, working her dream job, going out for lunch dates every day and keeping her toes perfectly pedicured. I am, however, managing to feed my baby good, whole food while maintain my writing career. The trick, at least for me, has been identifying how I want to feed my baby (i.e. mostly organic, with safe packaging, and with varied flavors so that he’ll develop a mature palate), and then preparing homemade food when possible and supplementing it with high-quality prepared baby foods in BPA-free pouches (our go-to brands are Happy Baby, Ella’s Kitchen, Sprout, and Plum Organics).

Last week my husband and I took the baby to one of our favorite brewpubs and ordered him his first meal off a kids’ menu: Mac ‘n’ Cheese. Having mostly been fed a healthful diet of milk, fruits, vegetables, and nutritious puffs and cheese cubes for finger food, this new creamy creation was a delight to my son. I cut the fusilli into tiny, bite-size pieces, but even when an entire noodle got past me, the boy was just fine. The dish was such a hit, in fact, that I whipped up a batch of Baby Mac ‘n’ Cheese last night so he could have a more healthful version at home this week.

Our modified recipe went something like this: Cook half a bag of organic pasta according to package directions. Meanwhile, heat whole milk over low heat. When the pasta is cooked, drain it and add it to the milk, along with shredded cheddar cheese and stir until melted. Season with salt and pepper if desired. Bake for 15 minutes in a 350-degree oven (probably only necessary if you wish to add some Parmesan on top), and allow to cool to an appropriate temperature before serving.

This version is more subtle and less rich than restaurant mac ‘n’ cheese or the kind that comes in a box–probably because it’s a simple mix of pasta, cheese, and milk with no butter, cream, or strange ingredients. But it’s also healthier and lets him practice eating slippery pasta as finger food without making a gooey mess. We’ll graduate to more advanced versions as time goes on (I’m thrilled to have an excuse to find the perfect mac ‘n’ cheese recipe–if you have any pointers, let me know!). But in the meantime, I am proud to know that there are a few servings of pasta, made with a mama’s love, in the fridge for my son.

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Writer’s Kitchen: Wassail Punch

On December afternoons, while trimming the tree, doesn’t it sound nice to have a pot of wassail simmering on the stove, filling the house with its aromas of citrus and spice? This has been one of those lovely late-fall Seattle weekends: fair, sunny weather, tree lots bustling but not yet chaotic, and plenty of cars driving with the perfect Christmas tree strapped to the roof. It’s the type of weekend that makes one want to get outside and breathe in the fresh air for a while, then return home to warm up while decking the halls, maybe even jotting down story ideas that pop up while basking in the festive delights of the season.

Wassail Punch
Adapted from The Kitchn

While the original recipe calls for sugar, you may want to taste the juice first after adding the lemon to see if it’s sweet enough for your taste. Keep in mind that the drink’s flavors intensify while simmering. This is an alcohol-free version, perfect for the whole family, though bourbon would also be a nice touch.

3 cups apple cider
1/2 cup orange juice
2 cinnamon sticks
3 whole star anise
1/2 Tablespoon sugar, optional
Dash of allspice
Juice of half a lemon

Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a low simmer and cook for several hours, allowing the flavors to develop and mingle.

Serves 3.

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Writer’s Kitchen: NaNoWriMo, Voting, & Gâteau Breton

Who really thinks of baking a cake at 9:15 p.m. on the first day of NaNoWriMo? Me! I made it to 1,736 words the morning of November 1–which exceeded the necessary daily average word count by 69–so maybe it was no big deal. But considering some days will be too busy to write at all, perhaps it’s a good idea to stock up on words when I have time. But instead, I baked a cake. And then voted–and not even at the last moment! If my NaNoWriMo participation is anything like voting, that means I’ll won’t be cramming too hard to meet the 50,000 word count by November 30–just a little. Probably while baking a cake.

Buckwheat Gâteau Breton with Sea Salt
Adapted from The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz

I came across this cake while reading The Sweet Life in Paris, and I’m so glad I tried it. The buckwheat and sea salt add a fun complexity to an otherwise classic cake.

Cake:
7/8 cup buckwheat flour
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel or other medium-grain, light-tasting sea salt, plus 1/3 teaspoon
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 pound unsalted butter, brought to room temperature
1 cup sugar
4 large egg yolks
1 large egg
3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 Tablespoons dark rum

Glaze:
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon milk

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and butter a 9-inch springform cake pan. Combine both flours, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and the cinnamon in a bowl and whisk together until combined. Set aside. Beat the butter with a stand mixer until light and airy, then beat in the sugar until smooth.

Next, put four egg yolks, one whole egg, vanilla, and rum in a separate bowl and beat with a fork. Turn the mixer on high and slowly pour the eggs into the batter, allowing the batter to take on an airy consistency.

Add the flour mixture to the batter, stirring just until incorporated, then pour the batter into the pan. This batter is stickier and denser than many so it’s a little harder to work with, but do your best to smooth out the top.

Mix the egg yolk and milk for the glaze, then brush it over the top of the cake, using as much as necessary. Run the tines of a fork across the top in a few parallel lines, then rotate a little and repeat, to create an uneven crisscross effect. Sprinkle the remaining 1/3 teaspoon of sea salt evenly over the top. Bake for 45 minutes and let cool in the pan before removing.

Serves 14-16.

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Writer’s Kitchen: Homemade Marshmallows

We may have had a mild summer here in Seattle, but these sunny, mild October days almost make up for it. I’ve only had to wear a coat on one or two occasions so far and am still in the transition phase of my wardrobe.

However, the mornings are getting crisper and starting to bring in their blankets of fog. And that means it will soon be time for cozy fires in the fireplace, lush scarves and coats, and steaming mugs of hot chocolate.

Curling up in front of the fireplace with a hot beverage is such a pleasant way to spend an autumn evening. On those nights when you don’t feel like writing, consider this: Would lounging with your laptop or composition book and a mug of hot chocolate do the trick?

What if the hot chocolate were topped with homemade vanilla marshmallows that have collapsed with the heat into a silky, pillowy cover?

Homemade marshmallows last for weeks and are fun to make. Having a batch of them in the kitchen will enhance any hot chocolate, giving you a decadent treat in minutes. You work hard as a writer. Little touches like this can add a bit of joy to your work.

Homemade Vanilla Marshmallows
Recipe adapted from Not Without Salt and Alton Brown

These marshmallows melt nicely, giving your hot chocolate a fluffy, almost foam-like topping. Roasted over a campfire, they also make the best s’mores I’ve ever tasted. Tip: When making candy, read the recipe thoroughly before you start, and make sure to measure and prep the ingredients in advance.

3 packages unflavored gelatin
1 cup cold water, divided
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 cup light corn syrup
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 vanilla bean
1/4 cup confectioner’s sugar
1/4 cup cornstarch
Nonstick baking spray

Using the tip of a sharp knife, score the vanilla bean lengthwise, opening up the pod and scraping out all the seeds. Set the seeds aside, reserving the pod for another use.

Prepare the gelatin by sprinkling it into the bowl of a stand mixer with 1/2 cup water.

Meanwhile, mix the sugar, corn syrup, and salt with the remaining 1/2 cup water in a small saucepan. Cook, covered, over medium heat for three to four minutes. Uncover and keep cooking until the mixture reaches 240 degrees F on your candy thermometer. Watch carefully and be patient; it may seem like it’s taking a while, but you want a precise temperature, and it may continue to climb when you remove it from the heat.

Using the whisk attachment, turn the mixer on low speed and gradually pour the syrup into the gelatin. Turn the speed up to high and add the vanilla seeds. This is where the mixer starts to do all the work. Keep it going on high for about 12 to 15 minutes, until it’s lukewarm and very thick.

Meanwhile, combine the confectioner’s sugar and cornstarch. Line a 13 by 9-inch baking pan with foil paper, then spray with your baking spray. Pour the sugar and cornstach mixture into the pan and shake it around as if you were buttering and flouring a pan. Pour the mixture back into the bowl; you’ll need it for the top of the marshmallows.

When the marshmallow mixture is ready, pour it into the pan. It will be very sticky and seemingly hard to work with, but if you use a lightly-oiled spatula you’ll find it easier to spread. Once the mixture is spread evenly into the pan, sprinkle the cornstarch and sugar on top, using as much as needed and reserving the rest.

This is where you need to be patient. The marshmallows need to sit for at least four hours. If you do this stage a day before you need the marshmallows, you can finish them the next day.

Using a pizza wheel, cut the marshmallows into 1-inch squares. Dust with remaining sugar and cornstarch mixture.

Store in an airtight container.

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Writer’s Kitchen: Quick coconut cookies

My book group starts in just two hours and I have a delicious tarte Tatin in progress. However, I got to thinking, if I was low on time and still wanted to offer hospitality with some homemade baked goods, some Scandinavian coconut cookies would be a great alternative to a French tart.

With just four ingredients and no fancy cooking techniques (just measure, stir, form, and bake), they come together so quickly. That makes them perfect not only for company, but also for a sugar craving that might hit while you’re writing. Happy baking!

Coconut Cookies
Adapted from Aquavit

2 1/2 cups unsweetened, medium grated or shredded coconut
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 eggs
3/4 cup sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat butter in a small saucepan until melted. Remove from heat and stir in coconut. In a separate bowl, beat eggs to combine, then add sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Mix everything together and drop by rounded teaspoons onto a parchment paper-lined cookie sheet. Using the bottom of a glass, gently press down on each cookie to slightly flatten. Bake for 8 to 11 minutes, until golden.

Serves about two dozen.

Photo and recipe originally published on my blog Outside Oslo.

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Writer’s Kitchen: Absinthe Cake

Absinthe Cake

Earnest Hemingway didn’t like to talk about writing. Fearing that talking about it would remove the magic, he chose to let the ideas and stories percolate in his subconscious after a day’s work.

However, what worked for Hemingway doesn’t work for everybody. Personally, sharing the writing process and experience with Sarah creates inspiration in itself. Whether we’re camped out with our laptops and working on our novels or just checking in on each other’s process and ideas while enjoying a glass of wine or a pastry, that community we share helps unblock a stalled story and creates accountability. And sometimes it’s just good to leave the writing behind for a while and share an experience. Like baking a cake.

Our husbands joke that we were separated at birth. In addition to the childhood subscriptions to Cat Fancy magazine and an uncharacterisic propensity toward loud, angst-filled music, we’re both passionate about two things: writing and good food. And we often find the two connecting in some way.

For example, cooking and baking are methodological. A recipe spells out the ingredients and steps, and when the instructions are followed, the result is a cake, loaf of bread, entree, or hors d’oeuvres ready to be enjoyed. Likewise, when ideas and writing tools are combined, the writer produces a poem, short story, article, or novel that may someday engage and delight readers.

We all have our own processes, whether we keep our lips closed on our book like Hemingway or work with a critique group to get feedback. Hemingway probably wouldn’t agree with my way of doing things, but given his time in Paris during the 1920s, I wouldn’t be surprised if he approved of this cake.

Absinthe Cake
Adapted from David Lebovitz’s The Sweet Life in Paris

3/4 teaspoon anise seeds
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup almond flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
8 Tablespoons unsalted butter (bring to room temperature)
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs (bring to room temperature)
1/4 cup whole milk
1/4 cup absinthe
Grated orange zest

For the glaze:
3 Tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup absinthe

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Prep a 9-inch springform pan by buttering it and then lining the bottom with a round of parchment paper.

Crush the anise seeds with a mortar and pestle, then combine with all the other dry ingredients and sift into a small bowl.

In another bowl, combine the milk, absinthe, and 1-2 teaspoons of orange zest; reserve the rest of the orange for another use.

Beat the butter and sugar, preferably in a stand mixer, until light and fluffy, then add eggs, one at a time, letting the first one become incorporated before mixing in the second.

Stop the mixer at this time and add half of the flour mixture. Stir briefly, then add the milk and absinthe.

Taking care to not overmix, add the rest of the flour mixture and stir by hand just until incorporated.

Pour the batter into the pan and gently smooth the top. Bake for about 35 minutes, using the toothpick test to determine when it’s done. Let it cool somewhat before removing it from the pan, and let cool completely before beginning the glaze.

When you’re ready to glaze the cake, liberally poke holes in the cake with a toothpick to help the glaze soak in. Stir the sugar and absinthe together in a smooth bowl, taking care so the sugar doesn’t dissolve. Brush the glaze over the top and sides of the cake, continuing until you use all the glaze.

Enjoy!